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Get a Grip: Carrying a Shell 

By Dan Boyne

From the 1998 American Rower's Almanac
 

There are different ways to carry boats, depending on their design and construction.  When you are selecting a carrying method, keep three things in mind.  First, make sure that you have good enough hold on the boats so that you won't drop it if a strong wind comes along.  Second, make sure that the carry is relatively comfortable, and doesn't strain your neck or back.  Third, make sure that the boat itself is not being stressed.  The methods below mainly refer to intermediate and advanced shells that no wider than 18 inches and weigh less than 40 lbs.  If your boat is bigger than this, read the section entitled "Carrying Bigger Boats."

The gunnels and the hull of most fine racing shells are generally not good places to grab; they may crack or even break.  The riggers are a better choice, but should be used sparingly, for they were not designed to support the entire weight of the boat.  The seat deck area, which has been made to hold your weight as you row, is the best location for handholds.  Most boats have either portals or handles at either end of it, where the seat tracks begin and end.  If you boat is well built, "It's" center of gravity will lie somewhere between these two points, allowing you to balance it rather nicely at your waist.  If you don't have far to go to get to water, and your boat is on the heavy side of the 40 lbs, you can lift and carry it right side up like this.

Getting It Off a Boat Rack

Most shells are stored upside down on a boat rack, which allows any water inside to drain out freely.  Getting a shell off a rack requires a little finesse, especially when it is packed in tightly among a group of others.  If it is stored below waist level, or on the ground, you will unfortunately have to grab the riggers or the gunnels to temporarily lift the boat and roll it right-side up.  If you have a set of slings, you can use them to support the shell as you roll it.  If not, balance the hull on your knee while you switch your grips to the inside of the boat.

If your boat is stored at waist level or higher, things are a little easier.  Simply reach in and grab the two hand holds.  Rest the palms of your hands on the seat deck as you do this, and keep your fingers wrapped around the handles or portals.  Lift the shell up a few inches and tilt it toward you slightly, so that the seat is up and walk the shell away from the rack.  From here you can either roll it down to your waist, or employ one of the following over the head carries.

The Army Carry

Once you have walked the boat away from the rack, you should press it over your head and lock your elbows to support it.  If you boat is built without a comfortable place between the tracks to rest it on your head you may want to walk it to the water as is, turning your body parallel to the boat and keeping both of your arms fully extended.  This requires a fair amount of arm strength and/or a light boat, but it is a "no-nonsense" carry that allows you to roll the shell right in when you reach the water.  If you use this method, make sure the handles or portals fore and aft of the seat tracks are quite sturdy, in case a good breeze comes along.

The Head Carry

This method is a classic way to get your boat down to the water by supporting its weight on your head.  Some people shy away from this technique, because it can be genuinely uncomfortable the first few tries.  However, it is an effective method once you get a sense of where on your head the boat should go, and how to place the boat there so that it balances.  When you find these two balance points-the one on your head, and the other on the boat-it generally won't fee all that heavy or uncomfortable.

Humans can carry incredible amounts of weight on their heads.  The trick lies in balancing the weight well, for if the boat starts to lean one way or the other, it will suddenly feel twice as heavy.  From the arm carry position, you simply lower the shell down to the top of your head.  When you do find the right balance point, your arms are now free to grab the riggers and keep the boat level bow to stern and port to starboard, without having to support the boat's weight.  This set up is especially good in windy conditions, because the arms can help tilt the hull toward the wind.

If possible, you should have someone spot you the first several times you attempt this carry.  That way, if something goes wrong, you won't drop the shell or wrench your neck.

The Shoulder Carry

Popularized in Europe, this right-side-up carry is a good one for bigger rowers who can hoist the boat up onto their shoulder by palming the bottom of the hull in one hand and holding the gunnel with the other.  The hull is then cradles in the space between one's neck and shoulder, cushioned by the trapesius muscle.  If you don't have any cushion, or the one-armed strength to hoist the boat, this isn't the carry for you.  Also, keep in mind that many boats made with delicate hull materials don't take kindly to a bony shoulder.  For tall rowers, this method has the added practical benefit of keeping the boat below head level, where it won't crash into a short entry way or boat bay door.

Carrying Bigger Boats

Some boats are quite heavy and can't be carried alone.  If you row out of a busy boat club, it generally is not a problem to find someone to help you out.  When you carry a boat with two people, especially a double scull, remember that it is generally not a good idea to hold it right at the very ends, unless the manufacturer has put the handles there.  This places a great amount of stress on the middle of the boat, and it will last longer in terms of stiffness to support it halfway between the ends and the cockpit-much the same way a good rack supports it.

Many people who own wider recreational boats on lakes or ponds, just drag them ashore and tie them up (these are boats without fins).  Others buy strap-on wheel systems which allow them to haul the heavy boats up to a garage or shed.  A third option is to buy or make a boat with a removable rigging unit, like the popular Aiden Ocean Shell.  This divides the weight in half, but of course, you have to put the rig together every time you use it.  Still, if you aren't that strong, or if you have to car-top your boat with any degree of regularity, this may be something to consider.

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